Frequently Asked Questions

You can drop off your bird or head between 8 am and 6 pm. If you want to make sure I am here to move it into the shop, text or call to schedule a drop off time. 

                                                      724-998-6375

I am a bird and euro taxidermist. My prices range depending on bird. Please refer to the "price" tab. 

No, because I offer different birds the prices are without the cost of the base habitat. I offer many different base habitats that can be chosen depending on needs. 

Turn around time is subject to the amount of birds in the freezer when yours is dropped off. Currently my turn around time is under 12 months.

All birds are taxied with cast heads with the exception of turkeys. The turkey price includes a cast head, if a freeze dried turkey head is wanted, price will be adjusted at that time.

Before the hunt preparation is pivotal to ensure the best mount possible. Please refer to the " upland field care" tab as a source for upland birds. Refer to the "waterfowl field care" tab as a source for waterfowl. Just remember never harvest the meat from any bird you want to have mounted. I do not want any bird cut from meat harvesting. HEAT IS YOUR ENEMY. Get your bird cooled.  For euro mounts cut midway down neck. 

I try not take in early geese or swans unless they are shot in the later seasons (no earlier than November for geese and January for swans) due to large quantities of pin feathers. If you think you are on the border, feel free to thaw the bird in a refrigerator and bring to the shop for me to inspect.

I maintain the ability to refuse mounting any bird that is either too shot up, too poor quality, or too young to produce a respectable mount. I will not risk my business image or standards due to low quality birds.

Yes, but it depends on how badly and where the bones/feathers were broken. If the feathers are heavily shot up, they will look the same when finished….

If the break is in the humerus (shoulder to elbow) that is what I consider the green area. Easily repaired and most flying poses are fine, however you will likely see a few small feathers with damage so be realistic on the final product. I will communicate after skinning/washing to inform you of quality and best pose options to hide the most damage. 

If the break is in the radius/ulna (elbow to wrist) I consider the yellow area. Repairs can be made but you will definitely notice feather damage and wings will need to stay tucked in to hide said damage. 

If the break is in the metacarpals (wrist/fingers) that is what I consider the red area. I will recommend avoid a flying pose and recommend a standing/swimming pose.

Maturity differs visually between the different species, however there a common areas to look for to ensure your bird has reached mature plumage.

Looking at the feather bases against the skin for pin feathers in areas of the chest, scapular feathers, tail, side pockets where common pin feathers will be present can help you identify if your bird is suitable for a mount. Most geese and puddle ducks, especially wood ducks, teal and mallards, are likely to be lower quality if shot during early season.

If you are unsure of the birds quality, allow the bird to thaw in the fridge overnight prior to bringing to the shop. I will be happy to show you what to look for as well as determine if your bird is suitable.

Pin feathers are feathers that are in the molting process and have not finished fully growing. These feathers will look like they have a small section of plastic straw at the base of the feather. These feathers will not only fall out but will need to be removed in the mounting process potentially leaving large bald spots. Depending on the severity/number of pin feathers this can greatly impact the quality of your mount. It is my strong recommendation that birds with a high quantity of pin feathers be withheld and to wait for the harvest of a more mature bird.

No, all of are skulls are hand cleaned and treated.